Much has been said about high-end restaurants serving below average coffee.
Scottie C. nailed it well a few months ago in his article appearing in a coffee industry glossy. He did point out though that change, albeit slow, is occurring amongst the foodie havens, but this was limited to competitive pockets around some major CBD's.
This blinded approach by quality restaurant owners astounds me like nothing else in this industry.
Last night, under pressure from The Little One to revive an alleged lack of romance and prove that I do indeed love her just as much as my roasters and beans, we took off to dine in a super place that was a 150km round trip from our home - some of the journey being mountains and windy roads.
Upon arrival at said wonderful place it was indeed a picture of beauty - perched on the edge of a forest, nice tables, superb linen and a great open fire.
The menu was a masterchef inspired dream - local and exotic quality ingredients sourced from the best of the best. Chilli rabbit was one such example - you get the idea.
After ordering some very nice wine, we sat back, listened and watched with slight but concealed amusement about how the Angus beef was grain fed for 6 months a year and then left in it's own paddock to feed (poor thing was probably very lonely).
Oh, and how the mushrooms were hand picked (geez I'd hate to see a machine do it) from the side of a steep mountain nearby, etc.
Explaining the menu was a real production, just like hamlet..............was there a tragedy looming ?
During our entree and mains, I could hear the whine and groan of a grinder and the screeching of the steam wand in cold milk jugs. Yes, they had espresso. I could not see it because I had my back to that area and I did try looking around a few times. Despite sitting a good 6 metres away from the machine and they only machine a half-dozen coffees in the 3hrs we were there, I could distinctly smell the ground coffee in the air.
OK, let's fast forward to ordering deserts - yes they were yummy.
The waiter asked "would you like coffee or tea ?"
I could not help myself..........I had to ask "what coffee is it"
Waiter has puzzled look on face, pulls out small notepad from apron and scans through his menu cheat sheets at a blindingly rapid rate.
Waiter now has serious case of embarrassment and says "sir, it's a really nice coffee"
I start to bite my tongue. The little one has squeezed my hand as a gesture to "DON'T"
I respond with "yes, but what brand of coffee beans are they"
Waiter pauses, looks up (no sign) searches with his eyes around the room for one of the other waiters or the Front of House manager and then politely responds with "I will find out for you".
5 mins later he rushes back to our table, filled with glee and a slightly smug look as delivers the information I was dreading "the coffee beans are XXX" (a.k.a. the not so fresh imported Italian).
I then say "sorry for having to put you through that, but I have to drive 75km in dark, windy roads late at night back to my home and was really looking forward to a coffee that would be fresh roasted. Please don't think I'm a whinger because you have done an excellent job serving us tonight, but I just cannot have one of those coffees for fear of spoiling the wonderful lingering flavours from the meals tonight that persist on my palette".
Now the story ends and I have to travel home. All the way I was shaking my head at blatant stupidity and cursing why, why, why. The Little One was on the receiving end of my rants about restaurants losing the plot with coffee.
Everything in that place was first-class, right down to the smallest details about ingredients and the effort they went through was akin to tackling an assault on Mount Everest and turning back 50m from the summit when it came to coffee time.
True, many restaurants don't do a lot of coffee (they love to push the grog), but that's not and excuse anymore. Fresh premium coffee, even in small quantities is readily available.
The owners and operators of high-end dining places are well enough educated and experienced to know good from bad, fresh from stale, etc. They certainly know better and I'm just gob-smacked at how they have a total lack of care or interest in coffee.
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