KKTO - Outer pot, strainer, liner and insulation

ericshum · March 2012

Outer pot - Internal diameter = 22.5cm
Strainer - Internal diameter = 21.6cm
Strainer - External diameter = 21.8cm
Measurements made using a disto.

KK, do you think I can fit a liner inside along with some insulation?

Koffee_Kosmo · March 2012

on 1331453372:

Outer pot - Internal diameter = 22.5cm Strainer - Internal diameter = 21.6cm Strainer - External diameter = 21.8cm Measurements made using a disto. KK, do you think I can fit a liner inside along with some insulation?

With that pot size my manufactured liner wont fit You only need to make a false bottom if the overall volume is over 9 litres (optimum is 7 to 9 litres) That said - find a cheap but larger pot, one that your present one will fit in & insulate the bottom and side KK

ericshum · March 2012

I think the volume is about 7.2litres You're considering the height of the outer pot + the additional height of the strainer?

ericshum · March 2012

Perforated insert or Strainer

Koffee_Kosmo · March 2012

on 1331453927:

I think the volume is about 7.2litres You're considering the height of the outer pot + the additional height of the strainer?

Total volume is a combination of Lower pot Upper pot / perforated insert extension if any (as some inserts don't protrude past the rim of the lower pot) Turbo Oven dome Here is a calculator http://www.online-calculators.co.uk/volumetric/cylindervolume.php KK

ericshum · March 2012

KKTO Pot Exterior Dimensions Diameter (m) Height (m) Volume (litre) Overall Pot 0.24 0.22 9.952565527 Individual dimensions Inner Dia (m) Height (m) Volume (litre) Outer Pot 0.23 0.19 7.89403694 Strainer Top Sec 0.21 0.12 4.156327081 Strainer Bottom Sec 0.24 0.06 2.714336053 Total 6.870663133 I'm thinking of getting the liner to cover the entire strainer. Do we need the side holes for the chaff to escape as well? What I intend to do is to get a liner and create a false bottom 10cm below the strainer, giving a total volume of roasting chamber (excluding dome) of 7.2 litres. Opinions?

ericshum · March 2012

Ooops.. I messed up the labels... top section of the strainer is 0.24 and the bottom is 0.21 (it could be less, since i measured the outer diameter of the bottom section of the strainer. My disto's not measuring correctly.

Koffee_Kosmo · March 2012

Its better if I post a photo of the measurements of the insert liner we have manufactured All holes are used in heat distribution and chaff escape

What I intend to do is to get a liner and create a false bottom 10cm below the strainer, giving a total volume of roasting chamber (excluding dome) of 7.2 litres. Opinions?

If your calculations are right you will fall inside the 9 litres KK

ericshum · March 2012

KK, like you've suggested on PM, An option would be: 1) Use liner from koffeekosmo.com.au 2) With my inner pot, I would need to cut it and rejoin it. My next question would then be, would the distance from the TO to beans matter? Any minimum height from roaster to beans to observe? I did notice that for smaller batches, you recommended using a chinese colander. Just thought I'll ask again here. As with insulation: 1) I will be attempting to source ceramic fibre. I should have a 10mm gap between the outer surface of the liner and the internal surface of the outer pot which I will line it with ceramic fibre. If this is still insufficient then I'll consider insulation to the applied on the outer surface but as of now, I am still trying to avoid it, just for things to look nice. Moving on (with the 12V DC motor): 1) What are the specs of the motor from koffeekosmo.com.au other than it being a 12V/2.5A 70rpm motor. Is the motor torque of any consideration? 2) 70rpm optimal or should I go variable speed motor?

Koffee_Kosmo · March 2012

KK, like you've suggested on PM, An option would be: 1) Use liner from koffeekosmo.com.au 2) With my inner pot, I would need to cut it and rejoin it. My next question would then be, would the distance from the TO to beans matter? Any minimum height from roaster to beans to observe? I did notice that for smaller batches, you recommended using a Chinese colander. Just thought I'll ask again here.

100mm to 150mm is a good distance from heat source to beans

As with insulation: 1) I will be attempting to source ceramic fibre. I should have a 10mm gap between the outer surface of the liner and the internal surface of the outer pot which I will line it with ceramic fibre. If this is still insufficient then I'll consider insulation to the applied on the outer surface but as of now, I am still trying to avoid it, just for things to look nice.

10mm of insulation should be ok

Moving on (with the 12V DC motor): 1) What are the specs of the motor from koffeekosmo.com.au other than it being a 12V/2.5A 70rpm motor. Is the motor torque of any consideration? 2) 70rpm optimal or should I go variable speed motor?

1 - The current at Max eff is about 0.6Amp, at Max output power is approx 0.76Amp, the stall current is 2.4Amp. The motor data is 12VDC, 68RPM at No-load, 50RPM at torque of 5Kg.cm. 2.73Watt output power 2 - The motor any motor will free run at the designated speed and will run slower under load dont use a speed regulator as its not necessary This drawing is a cross section of the kit roaster, it also shows the insulation placement KK

ericshum · March 2012

Thanks for sharing... That diagram is definitely useful... Will attempt to go to a car wreck tomorrow to grab a motor: http://www.autowreckers.com.au =)

ericshum · March 2012

12V DC Motor - Any difference between these two? : 1) Windscreen wiper Motor 2) Window winder motor

ericshum · March 2012

I would think that the windscreen wiper would be more sturdy since it can handle variable speeds? But I'll take your advice. Thanks. Next question, how do we seal off the gap between the drive shaft and the holes drilled in the inner pot, outer pot and the liner?

Koffee_Kosmo · March 2012

on 1331471444:

I would think that the windscreen wiper would be more sturdy since it can handle variable speeds? But I'll take your advice. Thanks. Next question, how do we seal off the gap between the drive shaft and the holes drilled in the inner pot, outer pot and the liner?

The chaff spins around the bottom and all that's needed is a little ring of silicone if needed at all

ericshum · April 2012

I got this motor from the car wreckers. Tried to power it with a 12V power supply (rated 13A) but it wouldn't spin. I checked continuity and the wires are fine. Any ideas?

Koffee_Kosmo · April 2012

I prefer window winder motors as they have a basic on off This motor type in your photo has quite a few extra wires than the standard 2 wires/pins A M should know

ericshum · April 2012

Coil

ericshum · April 2012

Thanks for the tips. I'd keep that in mind and look into it further. I got it to work. Turns out that I should be using the green for the negative. The black line's probably used for park mode or something. 2 of the live ones are for different speeds. The last one did nothing (I'll have to look at the wiring diagram - I think it's a wiper motor for a Falcon XF).

ericshum · April 2012

For those who are / plan to use a wiper motor, the following tutorial would give you a good idea of how the remaining 2 lines are used:

Don't think I'll use it personally. Don't need the park mode. Now I'm just short of an adaptor / socket from motor's shaft to a drive shaft then an agitator... Attempted socket set as suggested in Kelsey's KKTO Home Build thread but there's too much play and too little thread (6mm) for the socket to fit properly.

Koffee_Kosmo · April 2012

If you have the capacity to 1 - grind a flat & drill the lower side of the socket 2 - and then add a screw to secure & lock it in to place on the motor shaft nut Then you will have height adjustment and security sorted thus eliminating floppy connections KK

ericshum · April 2012

I'm thinking instead, use a smaller socket and grind down the nut till I get an interference fit. Don't have an angle grinder unfortunately.

ericshum · April 2012

KK, with the agitator, is the S-shape really that important? if it is, do you have any recommended curvature radius from the top view? Attached is what I got so far for a flat agitator. Those dimensions look ok to you?

Koffee_Kosmo · April 2012

The S shape was forged after many experiments of trial and error Once the desired agitation result was attained with the test unit - then this unit became the template of all blades On the kit blades - its 200mm length & the height is 60mm We also have the centre section cut out to allow the beans to pass through KK

ericshum · April 2012

Hi KK, I don't have a pack of 1kg green beans to try pouring it into the colander to test its height yet but I was just wondering if 60mm height (side / middle?) is sufficient to be agitating the beans? Cheers, Eric

hiphipharar · April 2012

on 1335152549:

I was just wondering if 60mm height (side / middle?) is sufficient to be agitating the beans?

I think weight rather than height may be your main concern, initially at least. Not all beans are the same size and 1kg of Ethiopian may not have the same depth as 1kg of Indian Monsooned Malabar, for example. The beans are somewhat heavy when added to the roaster. They will become lighter up the water is forced out of them during roasting but your motor needs to be able to move around that weight of beans. Also consider that beans expand as they roast, so a 6cm depth at the start may well be 10cm or more towards the end of the roast.

Koffee_Kosmo · April 2012

on 1335152549:

Hi KK, I don't have a pack of 1kg green beans to try pouring it into the colander to test its height yet but I was just wondering if 60mm height (side / middle?) is sufficient to be agitating the beans? Cheers, Eric

The agitator blade as it is in the current measurements on you PDF drawing will be quite OK and up to the job (attached again) In fact its almost identical to the single blade design You only need to bend it for best operation in your roaster I have attached a photo of the current design blade The newest model also has a special laser cut on the bottom section to allow the spring to be fitted KK

Beanz · May 2012

Not sure if this is the correct thread, I have been looking at the Gilien Pasta pot as they are quite cheap at the moment. I note on the Wiki KKTO site it recommends a pot without rivetted handles. The Gilien has riveted handles and I am wondering if this is acceptable or if the rivets would prevent the liner going into the pot ? Any feedback would be appreciated

Koffee_Kosmo · May 2012

on 1336902523:

Not sure if this is the correct thread, I have been looking at the Gilien Pasta pot as they are quite cheap at the moment. I note on the Wiki KKTO site it recommends a pot without rivetted handles. The Gilien has riveted handles and I am wondering if this is acceptable or if the rivets would prevent the liner going into the pot ? Any feedback would be appreciated

The reason I recommend pots without rivets is that the insulation liner inset won't slide down the inside of the lower pot This can be overcome by making a false floor Another thing that all budding builders should note is that some perforated pots have a flexible or drumming base and are a little larger in diameter In this case the standard KKTO agitator blade may not suit For this I have another design made from spring wire and butterfly wing in shape I have photos of a couple wire type that I have created for some clients that supplied there own pots KK

Beanz · May 2012

Thanks KK that all makes sense about getting the liner in. The problem I have run into is that apparentlty the Baccarat Entree range is no longer available despite still being on the web page. A couple of places tried to order it in for me but drew a blank. The Gilien is approx 25% of the price of the BE web site price. I had not appreciated the size variation of the inner pot on various 24x18 models. Is there a specific diameter to look for with the inner pot ? Only using a false floor would reduce the thermal properties the liner aims to achieve. Is there another brand available with the ideal dimensions to fit the liner? I may simply try to modify some other pot to achieve the same result One other point I have been wondering about, do small beans get caught or drop through the holes in the pasta pot, some of the ones I saw when I was hunting around seemed to have large holes

Koffee_Kosmo · May 2012

The handles of the lower pot can also be removed if you want to go that far, as that will give one a smooth restriction free surface for the insert liner to slide into place. No beans fall through the perforated insert holes as the hole size is to small The liner available from the KKTO shop, is approx 23.9 cm diameter KK

Beanz · May 2012

Thanks for that I had not appreciated it was such a tight fit

frame

Howdy, Stranger!

Howdy, Stranger!

Categories

In this Discussion

KKTO - Outer pot, strainer, liner and insulation

Comments

foot

Policies

Social

frame

Howdy, Stranger!

Howdy, Stranger!

Quick Links

Categories

In this Discussion

KKTO - Outer pot, strainer, liner and insulation

Comments

foot

Policies

Social