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In this Discussion
After the old forum software breaking in a way that we were unable to fix, we've migrated the site to a new platform.
Some elements aren't working as we'd hoped - some avatars didn't survive the transition, and we're still having issues with attachments that weren't added as inline images, but we're hoping to have that all sorted out soon.
Some elements aren't working as we'd hoped - some avatars didn't survive the transition, and we're still having issues with attachments that weren't added as inline images, but we're hoping to have that all sorted out soon.
Drummolex 20
Righto, new roaster concept has become reality. Concept proven with terrific results. A pretty easy build for those wanting to poach the concept. The biggest issue is finding a bean cage. It might even be easier to have one made. Anyway here is what I came up with.
Starting with a 20 lt drum, I cut the top off it leaving the folded rim in tact. I lit a fire inside it to burn the paint off the outside and whatever coating was on the inside. I do have a supplier that can supply drums already cut and stripped and in hindsight this is the way I would go. For about $ 20 it would be a good starting point.
Next step is to mark out the motor mount and this would be different for everyone. My set up is a power window motor from a commodore and it's mounted to a butchered regulator than it came with. $ 10.
Power supply is from jaycar. 240v in and 12V DC out, 5 amp $ 30. Coupled to this is a PWM unit from Jaycar that is rated for 8 A $ 27
Heat source is the standard halogen turbo oven $ 40 - $ 70
Bean basket is cobbled together from a deep fryer basket $ 30, deep fryer skimmer ( lid) $ 6 and some gutter guard $ 14. The gutter guard lines the inside of the basket as the holes were too big - hence why it might be easier to make or have made a proper basket. Anyhoo, it works fine regardless but is a decent amount of work, including burning the paint off the gutter guard and spot welding it in. By far the trickiest bit is fitting the lid. The hinge is on the inside and whilst not difficult to do, did involve a lot of ginning around. Lots of heating and bend metal to suit.
The basket sits in a cradle made from 20 x 5 mm steel flat bar. There is a 16 mm banjo bolt welded ( upside down) to the cradle. Through the banjo bolt is the drive pin. The hole in the banjo bolt was then plug welded to secure the pin ( you will see in the pics)
Motor drive - I used a piece of 20 mm pipe and welded it to the motor gearbox drive ( after removing the motor from the gearbox). I then profiled the end of the pipe to form a dog drive that would accept the drive pin from bean basket. Simple and works a treat.
A bit of shimming here and there to centralise the whole thing. It does wobble on the drive but not too much. If the basket were supported at both ends like a behmor it would run true but it's more work for little gain as far as I can see.
In the bottom of the drum there is 4 circles of earthwool insulation and then the old frypan from the hybrid which is a perfect fit. The frypan also catches the chaff. The bottom seal position ( frypan ) is determinded by the depth of the basket and should be as close possible to reduce volume. That being said, the volume of the roaster would be close to 15 lt, not the standard 9 of the KKTO.
The TO sits directly on the top rim of the drum with a silcone seal. Again, its position is determined by the bean basket.
A set of vice grips have been modified so I can grab the basket and remove it when the time comes to either load or dump the beans.
Roast times so far are around 14 minutes to first crack and 18 ish to second crack. While it's no where near as easy or quick to dump beans as a KKTO it's not too bad. With more roasts I reckon about 10 seconds will be the mark.
Starting with a 20 lt drum, I cut the top off it leaving the folded rim in tact. I lit a fire inside it to burn the paint off the outside and whatever coating was on the inside. I do have a supplier that can supply drums already cut and stripped and in hindsight this is the way I would go. For about $ 20 it would be a good starting point.
Next step is to mark out the motor mount and this would be different for everyone. My set up is a power window motor from a commodore and it's mounted to a butchered regulator than it came with. $ 10.
Power supply is from jaycar. 240v in and 12V DC out, 5 amp $ 30. Coupled to this is a PWM unit from Jaycar that is rated for 8 A $ 27
Heat source is the standard halogen turbo oven $ 40 - $ 70
Bean basket is cobbled together from a deep fryer basket $ 30, deep fryer skimmer ( lid) $ 6 and some gutter guard $ 14. The gutter guard lines the inside of the basket as the holes were too big - hence why it might be easier to make or have made a proper basket. Anyhoo, it works fine regardless but is a decent amount of work, including burning the paint off the gutter guard and spot welding it in. By far the trickiest bit is fitting the lid. The hinge is on the inside and whilst not difficult to do, did involve a lot of ginning around. Lots of heating and bend metal to suit.
The basket sits in a cradle made from 20 x 5 mm steel flat bar. There is a 16 mm banjo bolt welded ( upside down) to the cradle. Through the banjo bolt is the drive pin. The hole in the banjo bolt was then plug welded to secure the pin ( you will see in the pics)
Motor drive - I used a piece of 20 mm pipe and welded it to the motor gearbox drive ( after removing the motor from the gearbox). I then profiled the end of the pipe to form a dog drive that would accept the drive pin from bean basket. Simple and works a treat.
A bit of shimming here and there to centralise the whole thing. It does wobble on the drive but not too much. If the basket were supported at both ends like a behmor it would run true but it's more work for little gain as far as I can see.
In the bottom of the drum there is 4 circles of earthwool insulation and then the old frypan from the hybrid which is a perfect fit. The frypan also catches the chaff. The bottom seal position ( frypan ) is determinded by the depth of the basket and should be as close possible to reduce volume. That being said, the volume of the roaster would be close to 15 lt, not the standard 9 of the KKTO.
The TO sits directly on the top rim of the drum with a silcone seal. Again, its position is determined by the bean basket.
A set of vice grips have been modified so I can grab the basket and remove it when the time comes to either load or dump the beans.
Roast times so far are around 14 minutes to first crack and 18 ish to second crack. While it's no where near as easy or quick to dump beans as a KKTO it's not too bad. With more roasts I reckon about 10 seconds will be the mark.
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