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After the old forum software breaking in a way that we were unable to fix, we've migrated the site to a new platform.

Some elements aren't working as we'd hoped - some avatars didn't survive the transition, and we're still having issues with attachments that weren't added as inline images, but we're hoping to have that all sorted out soon.

KKTO Hybrid

Thanks to KK's most generous donation of bits, I'm now in the process of building a roaster. It will have the option to use two heat sources, the turbo oven on top and a electric frypan on the bottom. I need to get a motor, power supply, turbo oven, agitator blade and the cooling fan. KK has supplied all the pots, drive shaft, frypan, silicone seal etc.... So Ive started by drilling a 14 mm hole dead centre in the frypan and the bean basket for the driveshaft. Next comes the fixing of the outer pots to the frypan. A bit of a rummage through my builders brackets box has got it sorted. I have to come up with a way to secure the bean basket while still making it quick release. Shouldnt be too bad to do though. Unfortunately, my phone photos are way too large to post so I'll take some pics in the morning with a older camera with small file sizes.


(Large images fixed but photo quality is poor by mod team)
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Comments

  • I came up with this design over a year ago and was destined to grace the web pages of the KKTO wiki started by Kelsey  :thumb: But decided to give the Roaster to Derillex to get him started with serious roasting Ok just to give everyone a quick photo diary of the concept Its a 2 heat source roaster Heat source 1 is from the element embedded in the fry pan Heat source 2 is from the Turbo Oven from above Its the same concept as the original design with a motor and shaft to drive an agitator from underneath It uses 1) The original SS turbo oven ring from the KKTO kit (Photo 1) 2) Attaches to the extender ring that comes with the Turbo Oven 3) Perforated Insert for the roast chamber 4) A round electric fry pan with a silicone tube heat seal 5) A base (to be made by Derillex) 6) Motor, Shaft & Agitator Note: This concept will also work with a standard shallow fry-pan 24cm to 30 cm in diameter It just reverts to be a single heat source roaster Lots of photos to see
  • More photos of the new KK design
  • Last photos of what it should look like when complete & the ring connector available from sponsor Barazi
  • on 1337082673:
    Unfortunately, my phone photos are way too large to post so I'll take some pics in the morning with a older camera with small file sizes.
    FYI, my phone also generates large images. I use andropaint (free app) to save at low resolution for forum posting.
  • More. As you can see, Ive put brackets on the bean bowl and stoppers on the outer ring that the TO sits on. Twist the handle on the bean bowl clockwise to lock it in and anti clockwise to unlock and remove/dump beans. As long as the motor turns clockwise it should be all good ;D
  • Very good  :thumb: How proud am I to have another idea come to life  :lamp: Just the base and motor to go and then the connection to the agitator KK
  • I recall a while back you mentioned something about "Similar to an ice cream maker". Now I understand  :thumb:
  • Coming along well I think. I'll get a motor so I can tinker on the weekend. KK, is a washer used between the driveshaft and the bean bowl ? I imagine one would be beneficial - copper ? Also, the agitator blade has me scratching my head a bit. What to use - a whisk maybe ? Should I profile the blade to the side of the bowl ?
  • on 1337156649:
    Coming along well I think. I'll get a motor so I can tinker on the weekend. KK, is a washer used between the driveshaft and the bean bowl ? I imagine one would be beneficial - copper ? Also, the agitator blade has me scratching my head a bit. What to use - a whisk maybe ? Should I profile the blade to the side of the bowl ?
    Does the perforated bowl touch the fry pan?  A washer will not matter in this design if you are going to have a slip on/slip off agitator blade Image 1 - Welded agitator - imagine on square drive or socket Image 2 - Spring wire butterfly (sacrificed whisk) Image 3 & 4 - My original V1 agitator on a tool drive socket I have some of that perforated plate for the agitator if you need some This is a wire type agitator - Attachment not found.
  • I have found my original drawing of the - Single or Dual Heat coffee Roaster Hope the side view will help members to understand the original design concept KK
  • Yep the bean bowl sits on the frypan
  • How is heat input managed in this roaster? With two heat sources, I imagine manual control would be tricky to get right.
  • on 1337203405:
    How is heat input managed in this roaster? With two heat sources, I imagine manual control would be tricky to get right.
    I envisaged that the electric fry pan would be set at a low temp of say 125 - 150 C Then use the Turbo Oven as we do now If anything it should be more stable, also allowing one to roast more green bean weight - but that needs to be tested
  • Yep buggered if I know UNM. Trial and error I suspect. Ive never used a TO either so its all new to me.
  • Hmm, so nobody actually knows. That makes it extra fun and interesting. I have a few ideas, but they require an external controller.
  • on 1337211609:
    Hmm, so nobody actually knows. That makes it extra fun and interesting. I have a few ideas, but they require an external controller.
    Yep, like all roasters a bit of trial and error an testing/refiining changing only one thing at a time.  Perhaps save the COEs and JBMs for week 2  :rofl:
  • Didnt get much done today but what I have done should be good. This mod should do 2 things for me. 1. Keep the driveshaft nice and centred and stable 2. Keep everything together when dumping the beans I had a rumage through my nut and bolt bucket and found a 6 mm bolt with a machined taper on the end - sweet. There is bugger all tension on the driveshaft. If I hold the assembly by the cross strap the tapered end of the bolt is not touching the driveshaft so it should be golden
  • Man that's just like a bought one... Better than a bought one!  What are ya... a cabinet maker or somethin'?    :thumb: Put a kilo of beans in it and give us a look.  That basket looks a bit smaller than the regular (the photos may be deceptive) so you'll need a tamer agitator than usual for bigger volumes.  What do you reckon KK?
  • on 1337254236:
    Man that's just like a bought one... Better than a bought one!  What are ya... a cabinet maker or somethin'?    :thumb: Put a kilo of beans in it and give us a look.  That basket looks a bit smaller than the regular (the photos may be deceptive) so you'll need a tamer agitator than usual for bigger volumes.  What do you reckon KK?
    The perforated bowl is the smaller one but it should hold about 1kg As to the agitator I have already shown Derrilex the design and I am willing to make the agitator for him See the design I made for another roaster and the proportion to 700 grams of green beans KK
  • on 1337254236:
    Man that's just like a bought one... Better than a bought one!  What are ya... a cabinet maker or somethin'?    :thumb: Put a kilo of beans in it and give us a look.  That basket looks a bit smaller than the regular (the photos may be deceptive) so you'll need a tamer agitator than usual for bigger volumes.  What do you reckon KK?
    Cabinet maker, sort of. Motor mechanic, yes. Carpenter, yes. Welder, yes. We shall sort it and it shall be the new benchmark :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
  • on 1337258763:
    Cabinet maker, sort of. Motor mechanic, yes. Carpenter, yes. Welder, yes. We shall sort it and it shall be the new benchmark :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
    I need a small welding job done to my security gate 
  • Nah no ally. Cant afford a pulse mig or HF tig  :(
  • Ok it's all done bar the TO. Or I thought it was. Whats the go with these bloody motors ? Who else is using a power window motor and what are you powering it with ? I have a garden light tranny that is 48 watt / 4 amp and 2 more monsters that are 150 watt 12 amp  and 220 watt 18 amp and it wont run on any of them yet it ran hooked up to a battery at the wreckers. Whats going on.
  • on 1337414393:
    Ok it all done bar the TO. Or I thought it was. Whats the go with these bloody motors ? Who else is using a power window motor and what are you powering it with ? I have a garden light tranny that is 48 watt / 4 amp and 2 more monsters that are 150 watt 12 amp  and 220 watt 18 amp and it wont run on any of them yet it ran hooked up to a battery at the wreckers. Whats going on.
    They draw high amps and about 5 amps should be OK They will burn out some power supplies if they are under spec Try a brick type normaly used on laptop computers as long as its 12 volt DC and a min of 5 amps A 12 volt DC x 2.5 amps will also work OK for short stints ( one roast) but it will also run at a slower RPM KK
  • My 5amp brick came from Jaycar for around  $30.  I too had no luck with the light transformers. 
  • I'm now thinking cheap ass battery charger from supercheap or similiar. I think most of those put out 5 amps and the better ones 8 amps
  • Hmmm, not so cheap. $40 for the cheapest battery charger. Crap.SOB.MotherF. Getting Pissed off now
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